Milk in your tea?
- Shruti Sundar Ray
- Aug 23, 2019
- 3 min read
Updated: Apr 17, 2020
Understanding the sales of tea, a classic pick-me-up of Chennai, following an increase in milk prices
The vendor at Shobana Snacks Bhavan, a hole-in-the-wall tearoom on the busy Nandanam junction, is arranging glasses in neat rows on the stall counter. Through the gleaming walls of the glasses, steam from a boiling pot of tea can be seen rising. He turns the knob of the stove and cranks up the heat. On cue, the golden-brown concoction begins to froth and the gurgling sound of bubbles fills the stall. The strong aroma of tea spreads outward, luring in bystanders from the street.
Unlike other enterprises, tea stalls are predominantly run by small-time merchants. Quaint, little shacks and booths, serving many varieties of milk tea, have been occupying the corners of Chennai’s streets, for many decades now. However, with the state government announcing an increase in milk prices, a grim shadow lurks over these tea outlets. The hike will have a direct impact on their bottom-line, an inevitability that should concern all tea-lovers. The Devi Thaeneer Viduthi, a humble establishment, that has been operating from a small room in one of the many, narrow, maze-like streets of Triplicane for over 30 years, is almost in shambles. The signboard-less entrance is almost blocked by stray electrical wires and half-empty water canisters. Its newspaper-featured, famous malai tea which is brewed using full-cream milk sourced specially from Thiruvallur, has been taken off the menu, in a desperate attempt at cost-cutting by the proprietors.
By contrast, the corporate office of the Tamilnadu Co-operative Milk Producers Federation Limited (Aavin) is housed in a swanky building in Nandanam. Two large statues of cows stand outside the office, a gentle reminder of the federation’s roots. Justifying the price hike, the Deputy General Manager (Marketing) of Aavin, T Marichamy says, “We take care of both the consumers and milk producers. We strive to create a balance.” He warns that if the demands of dairy farmers are not met, then supply may come to a standstill. “With no production, how will you be able to enjoy milk?” he asks.
The customers outside Irani Tea Stall on Smith Road, filed in a long queue, however, seem to be oblivious to the increase in prices. Leading the line, a woman requests for a parcel of ‘dum chai’. On the other side, two men stand, exchanging office gossip, while sipping their warm, almost-white-with-too-much-foam beverages. An indistinct chatter surrounds the shop, as two elderly gentlemen, swiftly yet diligently, hand out tea glasses. Three students walk in, sharing a joke, and ask for ‘special tea’, which is served in delicate ceramic cups.
Chennai may be the land of beaches, sunshine and coffee but tea, too, has a profound place in the hearts of locals. Tea is more than just an alternative to coffee, especially to the clientele of tea stalls, most of whom agree that tea is an essential for getting through a long, tiring day. With Chennai being a confluence of cultures, tea is the drink of choice for many. For T Muralidharan, the Manager of Irani, it is only natural that people flock to tea stalls. He believes that customers will not mind paying extra on account of the hike in milk prices. Why? He says, “Milk makes tea tasty.”
Tea vendors may have disparate business tactics but they all seem to agree that barring an initial disruption in sales, the denizens of Chennai will continue to consume their beverages. Like Marichamy says, “Everyone consumes milk. The demand has steadily increased over the years, despite price hikes.” Customers may hesitate, at first, to spend more money. Nevertheless, milk is milk and tea is tea. The hesitation will pass.
(co-authored by Ramya Ashok Kumar and Shubham Chhabra)
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